Surfing challenges you, it keeps you sane, it is an addiction but it can be intimidating and scary as well. While living in Bali, I met numerous girls that experience the same challenge: “How can I get over that fear to surf and enjoy bigger waves?”.
The last couple of weeks I have put myself out there, and I get it. The fact is that when you first start surfing the balance between the fear of big waves and the fun you get out of these bigger ones, is completely off. You are intimidated, get smashed, sit out in the line up like an extra in a movie and then you get smashed again. There is clearly more fear than fun. But what I noticed is that by getting paddling out for a more intimidating wave and learning from that experience, this balance is shifting. It is far more fun to surf bigger waves than small ones. You just have heaps of more wave to play with.
So it is about shifting that balance to fun from fear. Each time you paddle out and sit out in the back you will progress. First you just sit and watch. The next time you will start paddling for waves and unavoidably will endure a couple of wipe-outs and take some on the head. This is where you learn that you will be all right. And before you know it, you will have your first bigger wave. And once you get that one, the balance will start shifting. Fear will become far more inferior to the fun you will have with each big wave you take off on. It is just a matter of knowing that you will be ok en enjoy the ride.