It’s 4:45 am in the morning and my alarm goes off. I grab my stuff (wetsuit, board and towel), start my car and head off to Frances Town. I really want to surf today as I am pretty busy during the week so it better be working. With heaps of anticipation, I arrive and unfortunately not welcomed by peeling lefts and rights…it is flat. I will have to head off to Mainbreak then.
20 minutes later I arrive. There are waves and there are about 15 locals out already (note that it is only 5:30). I watch and watch and watch. I feel anxious and doubt. “Am I really going in now? “, “The waves are not that great?” is going through my mind. This insecurity creeps up on me and I question whether I actually belong here. And the thought that keeps holding me back is what other people might think. And then I manage to switch all these twisted thoughts off and start putting my wetsuit on. I can do this, I managed 6 ft Uluwatu so this is a piece of cake, right. I paddle out, am greeted by some 60+ surfers and start getting into it. When I get my first wave all is ok. It is really that newness of a surfspot you have never surfed. The people you do not know. But being back in the ocean feels great and even though it was not my best session ever, getting salty cleared all the doubts away and I am ready for the rest of the day and surf this spot again (and again and again).